New Style Idea

Milan Fashion Week kicks off Sept. 22 and runs until Sept. 28 — and like New York and London, it will involve a combination of digital events and a scattering of physical shows. 

The main players staging physical shows are Valentino (Sept. 27), Dolce & Gabbana (Sept 23), Fendi (Sept. 23) and Ferragamo (Sept 26). Fendi recently announced that Dior men’s designer Kim Jones will take the reins as women’s artistic director.

Both Fendi and Ferragamo will also adopt a co-ed format this season.

Valentino will also go dual gender. While the show was initially slated for a physical outing, the brand is now going digital instead, on Sept. 25. According to a press statement it will be set in “a mysterious, utopian world ruled by Medusa and inspired by our Trésor de la Mer design.”

Milan Fashion Week will also see the debut of Raf Simons as Prada co-creative director with Miuccia Prada on Sept. 24.

As for shoe presentations, Sergio Rossi will stage a live streaming digital event called Grazie Sergio — in tribute to its late eponymous founder who died in April. The invitation only event, set for Sept. 23, will unveil a limited edition series featuring 10 of the designer’s signature styles that have been reimagined for the contemporary customer. The brand will also host private appointments with CEO Riccardo Scuitto.

On Sept. 23, Santoni will unveil a capsule collection designed by Andrea Renieri. Renieri, who is currently head of the leather good’s division at Marco de Vincenzo, previously worked at Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi.

Other footwear brands, including Casadei, Giannico, Giuseppe Zanotti, Rene Caovilla and AGL, will all show via private appointments.

Casadei creative director Cesare Casadei shared a preview with FN along with  exclusive images. The collection in which resilience is a central theme, was his creative response to the pandemic. “Facing such a traumatic moment, I decided to react with positivity, accepting the reality, reorganizing my team and developing a creative storytelling where timeless designs meet highly innovative elements,” he said. Natural shades are a nod to the Italian landscape and coast, while neon accents represent a positive take on the future. 

Giannico creative director Nicoló Beretta also shared an exclusive preview image with FN. The ultra-feminine collection offers an escape from our reality — with Caribbean sunset colors and dreams of Californian pool parties.

He previewed the Eve sandal, a mid-heel style with caged upper embellished in crystals in the same turquoise shade as the leather. In May, Beretta told FN that he plans to evolve his product categories with more of a daywear focus in terms of heel height. We can also expect flat versions of some of his signature styles.

Giuseppe Zanotti also shared an image of a sneaker bootie from his spring ’21 collection — which he said is for “a modern woman who likes to mix different elements.” He added that while the shoe is modern and cool, its satin finish elevates it, making it feel like something much more precious.

While Rene Caovilla will also show by appointment, there will also be a digital element to be screened on the Milan Fashion Week digital hub.

The absence of Jimmy Choo, is a notable gap in the presentation schedule. As the entire industry evaluates the best way forward, the brand has chosen to go off calendar in favor of a virtual happening in October with creative director Sandra Choi.